Zombie Jeep, Part 3 Diesel Cleaning the Engine

Jeeps can be fun in the mud, but not when the engine oil looks like mud. As a working theory, I believe that its pervious owners did not take real good care of their car. I say it is a car because it is unibody. It must have a frame in my eyes to be a truck, in case Jeep owners start hissing at me.

The engine oil looked like mud. There can be several different reasons for this:

  • bad head gasket that lets the oil and antifreeze mix
  • lack of proper changes that cause the oil to get dirty and watery
  • water condensation from sitting

Lucky us, the head gasket is fine, so it is a combo of lack of maintenance and water condensation. One way to fix this problem is what I call the “diesel treatment.”

2-21-16 (2).JPGAfter the oil is drained and the cheapest oil filter possible is put on, pour about a gallon of diesel fuel into the oil fill. Yes, I said the oil fill. Relax, it is an old school trick for cleaning out a dirty engine.

And say hello to Rob. This is his rust bucket anyway.

 

2-21-16 (4).JPGFind the coil and disconnect it. The engine must  not start while you are doing this. On this Jeep, the coil is located on the right front of the engine. Crank the engine over for a while then let it sit. The diesel fuel will be pumped around the engine and begin to loosen up the sludge. After about a half an hour crank it some more, then let the crap settle into the oil pan before draining.

2-21-16 (10).JPGAir can be pumped into the oil fill by plugging the hole with a rag and that will make more of the crap come out of the pan after the first drain. This can be done several times, depending on how bad the engine is. After you are satisfied with how cleaned out the engine is, change the oil filter again because it too will be plugged with crap. This was a new filter,  but not anymore.

Fill the oil like normal and see how much cleaner it is. It may not be perfect, but it will be a lot better than if nothing was done. Consider changing the oil in about 100 miles because all the diesel will not come out and will continue to loosen up crap in the engine.

Any who…I am pleased to report that the brakes are all done and bled, the rear shocks are replaced, and did I mention that the oil change is done?

2-21-16 (13).JPGThe crossmember is now in. Nuts where welded inside the channel for the bolts to go through like stock after the inside piece was made and two holes where drilled. And then…weld weld weld, and walla! The transmission his held up by something other than automotive cancer. It is not the prettiest thing I have ever seen, but at least the tranny won’t fall out.

Zombie Jeep is going to sit for the week, and possibly we will visit it next week end and hopefully finish the job, if Rob ever stops buying new parts.

 

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Zombie Jeep, Part 2

DSC_0014Nothing was done to the Jeep last weekend because it was just two cold and nasty out. But after putting the jumper pack on it fired up no problem. Of course it sounded like a Sherman tank because of the lack of exhaust, and that will get worse before it gets better because the Y-pipe will be coming off.

We did not just dive into the frame work. We moved around keeping things in motion since many different things are planned and Rob bought a lot of parts. I didn’t fib on one point-we are bringing it back from the dead.

DSC_0001.JPGThe left front fender had a nasty hole in it where mud, salt and rocks get thrown at it. The first step is to remove the dum-dum, or factory undercoat around it along with dead metal. I would suggest wearing a facemask. The entire shop was filled with the smoke from that dum-dum.

Using metal cut from the hood of a junk car, a patch is made that fits over the hole. Once the outside of the hole and the patch is down to bare metal I used a metal bonding adhesive from Lord called Fusor 110B. 2-20-16 (5).JPG

Put a generous amount of glue around the outside of the patch, place it over the hole and attach it with self tapping screws. It will harden in 2 hours, then the screws can be removed and reused later, or left in. I mixed up some body filler and put that over the patch.

2-20-16 (7).JPGAfter it hardened I ground it down some and then we sprayed it over with undercoat. Some people may have done a better job, but it is hard to tell we were ever there, unless you really look, and it keeps the carpet dry.

The brakes are all brand new, as you can see from the picture to the right, there is a bag over the new rotor, caliper and pads to protect them from over spray and dust. The oil is drained at this point and that stuff was just mud. I am not sure what we plain to do about that right now, so look to future installments to find out.

We got out an old bumper jack and placed it under the transfer case to hold up the trans once the crossmember is removed. The bolts came out on the driver side without a problem but the passenger side was so rotted out that it had to be cut out. Once all the bad metal was removed, the first of the new pieces was fabricated and tacked in. 2-20-16 (11).JPG

As you can see there is not much left and we have a job and a half cut out for us. Tune in later, same Jeep time, same Jeep channel, for the next exciting installment.

Windshield Washer Pump Change on 1500 Chevy

 

cropped-12-30-15-2-171.jpgI have had this 1997 K-1500 Chevy since 2005 and everything on it works (almost), except the windshield washer pump. It hasn’t worked at anytime in living memory, so it is time for it to. Unfortunately because of deadlines, it had to be changed outside on a minorly chilly February day. But it is a quick fix.

The pump is rather inexpensive too at only $17, plus the cost of Smurf juice. That stuff isn’t cheap, do you have any idea how many Smurfs have to be ground up to make a gallon? They are not that easy to catch either, just ask Gargamel. (Ok, washer fluid is normally blue, hence the joke).

DSC_0012The tank is not hard to find. It is in the front of the left inner fender and the neck is by the upper coolant hose were it goes in the radiator. Only two bolts hold it in, one right by the filler cap that is 8mm and one by the inner fender that is 10mm. Once the bolts are out, the tank will pull out, but it is a bit of a tight squeeze. Pull on the part farthest from the fender to get it out.

DSC_0017.JPGAfter that comes removing the plastic cover that protects the pump from the cold blast of air made by rocketing down the road in sub-freezing temperatures. It is held on by snaps that come apart quickly. Remove the power wire, and the pump just pops out of its holder and slides out of the tank. Remove the hose by turning the pump to loosen it up then pull.

DSC_0019.JPGSince I did this outside, I had to use lung power to make sure the lines were intact and not plugged. If they are broken the fluid won’t go where you want it to, if plugged nothing will come out and put extra strain on the pump, or fly over the windshield and that will just annoy you.

Now assembly is just the reverse order of what was already done. I slid the pump in after putting on the hose and clipped in the power wire. By now, my hands were getting cold, so putting the lines back into their groves was a bit challenging. The plastic cover just snaps on, but make sure to check the back side with your hand. I would like to say slide the tank back in, but it is more like cram. Don’t worry too much about that ground wire on the fender, once the tank goes in, it will be out of the way.

DSC_0023After reinstalling the two bolts fill the tank and try the wipers!

After all that, changing the wipers just makes sense. New ones can set you back $20 or more but they are easy to change. Most have a hinge on them, and the little plastic clip that holds them on is between the arm and the blade. Sometimes they can be stubborn add require a smack on the end to get them to slide off. New ones just click in.

DSC_0014.JPGThis is just one example of some small projects that most car owners can do themselves, but varies from model to model. Some jobs that are easy on one car can be major surgery on another, so know if you should seek help before doing something on your own.

Oh…and making silly faces isn’t always a necessity, but does add to the fun.

 

Fiat Chrysler Hit with Huge Fine

Fiat Chrysler was hit with a record breaking fine for improper safety defect recalls. They must pay $105 million dollars in fines and offer to buy back 500,000 Dodge Ram pick-ups for steering safety defects and an entire generation of Jeeps because of rear impact gas tank ruptures that have killed 70 people.

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Anybody who has ever worked on a Jeep knows that the tank is plastic and is right behind the rear bumper, which is only rated to around a 5-10 MPH crash. Seriously, the bumper is made of nothing. They also rot out really fast. One Jeep we had the rear bumper metal fit in a 5 gallon bucket it was so gone.

The recall could cost Fiat Chrysler around 2.5 billion dollars, but since they have around 20 billion in the bank, sorry if I don’t cry for them. They can put back the money from the bailout that they didn’t really need and stop making crappy trucks.

http://www.foxsports.com/motor/story/fiat-chrysler-hit-with-record-105-million-fine-have-to-buy-back-ram-trucks-072715

How not to Load a F-350

What happens to this poor truck is just wrong.

How Not To Drive a Ford F-350 On A Trailer

 

The Future of Vehicles Modified For Street and Race Use

I ran into something on MSN auto that made me stop and want to know more. The EPA is making new laws on vehicle emissions. The scare is that aftermarket parts to make a car go faster, which often can effect the crap that comes out the tailpipe, will be illegal for street use. The parts are legal for off-road use, which is just about never regulated.

Old school rodders don’t have much to worry about at the moment. According to the EPA, the proposed law effects cars made after 2017, with current standards being 2006. But could be a serious problem for tuners.

It is already illegal to modify an exhaust system in New York State (S375-31). I have never heard of an older car being pulled over for it. For the most part, police leave older cars alone and pick on the tuners, for now.

Just remember, Congress’s job is to make laws. If they don’t make new ones, what is the purpose of them having a job? Right? Then they won’t be able to make more money and that is something they will not tolerate.

Even if you do not like tuners and prefer old school muscle (not that the two have ever argued) we all must band together to keep, not our hobby, but our way of life. Once Congress has had their fill of the tuner crowd, muscle cars will be next.

SEMA is lobbying, and I found the online petition. I signed it.

https://petitions.whitehouse.gov/petition/tell-epa-withdraw-its-proposal-prohibit-conversion-vehicles-racecars-0

Works Cited

http://yosemite.epa.gov/opei/rulegate.nsf/byRIN/2060-AS16

http://ypdcrime.com/vt/vt_guide.htm

http://www3.epa.gov/nonroad/2002/f02045.pdf?ncid=txtlnkusaolp00000618

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/the-epa-wants-to-make-it-illegal-to-modify-your-car-for-racing/ar-BBpiaxz?ocid=edgsp